Pray for the prisoners

I learned this week that Father Yang has been imprisoned.  He is the second of the brave Catholic clergy we met in Jeju last summer to go to prison.  His crime was upholding his Christian values through peaceful protest.  He, and many others (including priests and nuns) go daily to the construction site of a major naval base.

Father Yang's arrest brings me sadness because I know him personally, if even for a very short time.  I have seen his humble grace and gentle humor.  I know of his humanity and commitment to social justice.  He opened doors for my work in Korea by supplying invaluable contacts.

Supporters say the base is needed to protect south Korea, Japan, and other Asian nations from the military threat posed by north Korea and possibly China.  Opponents say that military escalation and destruction of the environment are counterproductive to world peace.

It seems that my own life has been punctuated by war and protests against war and social injustice.  Some will say that the end justifies the means.  I personally cannot see it.

I was born during the first year of the Korean War and grew up in post-war south Korea only to return to the United States in time for the Viet Nam War.  In both countries I was witness to, or took part in, protests, even riots.  After college I returned to Korea in the Peace Corps and witnessed the military dictatorship and oppression of the Park Chung-hee regime.  During that time a dear family friend, Geoge Ogle, was deported from Korea for the crime of praying for the prisoners, those who reportedly opposed the government.  Shortly after George's departure I visited his family only to win my own two Korean secret service minders.  It was also during my Peace Corps years that I visited Saigon where the ongoing war could still be heard in the distance and the beggars and the maimed bore witness in the streets.  Back in the U.S. again I watched in horror as many innocent Chinese lost their lives in Tiananmen square.

After I was married I moved to Panama with my husband, only to again be caught up in riots, coup attempts, and political upheaval that necessitated our return to the United States.  It was during that time that through my own experiences and those of my Panamanian family,  the lies and propaganda of our own government were truly exposed to me.  There was a stark contrast between the reports available in the United States and the first-hand accounts and photographs provided by family.

Since then we have been involved in wars in the middle east and Afghanistan. 

I have not been physically present for these later wars, but through my work caring for refugees from Laos, Somalia, Ethiopia, and other countries impacted by war, I have heard the stories and seen the anguish of the mother separated from her children with no idea if they are alive or dead.  I have seen the victim of rape, paralyzed both physically and emotionally by her torture.  I have seen the devastation of post traumatic stress disorder and of physical conditions that have gone undiagnosed and untreated for too long, destroying young lives.

Regardless of the arguments for military escalation, military intervention, military bases; I have a gut reaction based on my personal experiences and observations and fueled by my Christian upbringing.  My gut say NO MORE in capital letters.  Life should be punctuated by the joys of welcoming a new baby, by relationships, by the grief of losing a loved one who has lived a good life and is ready to move on, not by the anguish and devastation of war.  We should not destroy the beauty of God's creation by war and preparation for war.

PRAY FOR THE PRISONERS WHO ARE BRAVE ENOUGH TO STAND FOR THEIR BELIEFS AND FOR THE PEOPLE THEY ARE TRYING TO PROTECT

Food, Culture, and Oppression

I heard a program on the radio this morning that made me think.  It was a food program, Splendid Table,  The topic was Cala, an African treat brought to Louisiana by slaves.  Cala are rice cakes.  More rice is consumed by the people of Louisiana than in any other part of the world outside of Asia (at least according to the program). 

But what held my attention was not the recipe for the Cala, but the story of oppression and a way out.  Louisiana, unlike many of the southern states in the United States, had 3 classes of people with distinct rules for each.  The classes were: the whites, the free coloreds, and the slaves.  The rules for the slaves included a rule that every slave had to be given one day off each week.  Many of the slaves spent their day off manning street booths that sold things like Cala.  The second related rule was that if a slave asked the master for his price and had the money to pay the price, the master had to free him.  A freed slave joined the freed colored class which allowed him to own land, open a business, and send his children to college. Cala turned out to be the source of freedom for some of the slaves.  Now Cala is appearing on the menus of upscale restaurants.

Food, and changes in food, are a huge part of culture.  Rice is also the staple food in Korea.  Traditionally white rice has been considered the food of the rich while unpolished brown rice has been the food of the poor.  During the Japanese occupation during the first half of the 20th century, much of the rice was taken by the Japanese, leaving little or none for the poor Korean farmers.  The farmers learned that sweet potatoes could be stored in caves for long periods of time.  Gradually sweet potatoes gained a larger share of the diet. 

After the Korean War there was more rice, but it was still difficult for the poor to provide enough to feed their families so the rice was mixed with fillers.  As a child I loved the rice mixed with beans, barley, chestnuts, and other fillers; but pure white rice was still recognized as the preferable offering for guests.  When I was in college and supporting myself on a very limited income, rice with fillers was the core of my diet.  It was filling, tasty, nutritious, and affordable.

Now the tide has turned.  Korea has joined the ranks of the health conscious affluent nations.  My morning rice bowl when I returned to Korea recently was filled with brown rice with fillers, not because of poverty, but because of the health benefits of the whole grain rice with added fiber.  The mixed rice is no longer a symbol of poverty and oppression.  Like the Cala, it is a stylish addition to the diet of the affluent.

The ingredients for Cala include:

• leftover rice (about 2 cups)
• flour (about 6 tablespoons)
• sugar (about 3-4 tablespoons)
• baking powder (about 3 teaspoons)
• I would probably add a pinch of salt to make the baking powder rise better
• 2 eggs to make it all stick together
• a little vanilla

the batter is dropped into hot oil by tablespoons or small balls and deep fried until it is golden brown on both sides (it will flip over in the oil by itself)

after frying the Cala can be dipped or rolled in powdered sugar.

the outside rice is crispy while the inside of the Cala is soft and breadlike

This recipe reminds me of the hush puppies my grandmother used to make in North Carolina.  Hush puppies also have a slave connection.  The story is that these corn-based pop-overs were cooked outside.  The smell of the delicious treats caused the hounds to howl.  To quiet them down, the slaves doing the cooking would throw them a morsel and say "Hush puppy!"

My mother used to make hush puppies as a treat in Korea.  They are a basic corn bread recipe, but can have parsley, onions, hot peppers, or other seasonings added for extra flavor.  The batter is spooned into hot oil and deep fried creating a crispy treat that is particularly good with fish or barbeque served with cole slaw.  Another inexpensive southern treat.

Global Search for Justice

St. Catherine University, where I teach, requires all juniors and seniors to take a course title "Global Search for Justice."  Those teaching this course can choose from a number of topics including immigration, women's health, voices of dissent, etc.

This past summer I spent a month in Korea with my co-instructor, learning and traveling to prepare to teach our new section titled "Women's Voices of Dissent and Women's Health".  Now that we are back it is time to plan out the details of the class: how to combine history, cultural perspective, current events, and health care issues as they relate to women.  The themes have to be universal.  The women on this trip need to learn as much, or more, about themselves than they learn about Korea.  They have to learn to see from many perspectives, how to set priorities that make a difference, how to use the small things to build a network for change... But how do you teach these things?  Can young women from the United States spend 3 weeks in Korea, now a wealthy developed country, and feel the pain of the ghosts that continue to reside there?  Even if they can grasp the pain of the journey, can they transform that pain into action?  Can they become the compassionate leaders who will find a way to end war, provide health and nourishment to the next generation, do away with greed, and move the world to a new reality?
Of course not.  But they can build a foundation for themselves that may ripple out in ways we can barely imagine.  My charge is to pick and choose the experiences that will provide the fodder for their thought, craft the reflections that will touch their hearts; all while keeping them safe, happy, and entertained.

It is a big charge, but an exciting one.  To teach is to touch lives in ways that play it forward, to provide opportunities to stretch both the mind and the heart,
Yesterday I put posters up around campus.  The posters are an attempt to start the process.  The many wonderful people of Korea will do the rest.  I need ideas on how to bring it all together to package the experience for processing and growth.  Undergrads need structure.  They are not yet mature enough to realize that they are weaving their own tapestries.

At times like this it is easy to feel inadequate.  I have to remind myself that my experience is my own.  It belongs to no one but me.  Likewise, my students will liver their own experience.  They will mold themselves from what they take away from their own experiences and their own dance.  While I can touch their lives, I cannot (and do not want to) shape their lives.

Our inadequacies and imperfections are our art.  They are what makes us grow.  We each own a tiny piece of history.  It is unique.  It carries our personal and unmistakable scent into the winds of time.  What makes history so fascinating is the combination of personal imperfections and genius dancing together in simultaneous harmony and conflict.

Just as many topics and experiences come together in this course, our students will come together making their collective and individual mark and taking away with them their own impressions, the messages that impacted them most profoundly.  They will process in their own way, come to their own conclusions, and touch those around them beginning a chain reaction.  I am sure that I will be one of those touched by their vision just as much as I am a catalyst for their thinking.   Now to work on the structure on which students will hang their new experiences to let them distill, mature, and begin their growth.  The structure needs to be generic enough to flow with the dance, but sturdy enough to form a foundation.

War! War! What are we fighting for?

My family on the way to Korea in 1955

As the United States and other Western powers debate whether or not to send military intervention to Syria I am reminded of Jimmy Carter's statement that (and I paraphrase here) even when war is a necessary evil, it is always an evil.

 I have never actually been in a war, but my perspective is still colored by personal experiences, and maybe by echos of my Quaker ancestors.

I was only 4 years old when I first crossed the Pacific ocean with my parents and my older brother.  It was 1955 and the  cease fire on the Korean peninsula had been in effect for only 2 years.  South Korea, where we lived was still devastated by the war.  Some of my earliest memories are of playing in the amputee center where men missing limbs worked on usable wooden prostheses or made crafts to support themselves.


Women building a road

Families lived in shacks made from scraps of military canvas and pounded out tin cans.  Sanitation was non-existant. The children I played with all had runny noses and red chapped cheeks in the winter.  Many had open sores on their skin. It was impossible to get warm in the winter or cool in the summer.

Work conditions were primitive, with women carrying rocks on their heads to build roads and other infastructure.  Equipment for even the simplist task was not available.

Everything was destroyed.  The mountains were bare of all but the sparsest vegetation.  Food was scarce.  Many of the larger buildings that were left standing were missing windows or had been bombed to ruins.  We children  were warned not to pick up any strange objects as there were always stories circulating about children who found live land mines and died or lost limbs.  We saw the legless beggars in the street and knew that the danger was real.  Still, the bright broken tiles of bombed out buildings made attractive toys for children who had nothing else to play with.

My two "moms" caring for orphans

My own life was separated by one degree.  I did not live in a shack, but was raised by a Korean "second mother" who lost her family, was imprisoned, and suffered torture as a result of war. My own mother worked closely with widows and orphans whose lives were destroyed by war.

 

Growing up in that world gave me perspective on the effects of war and causes me to always consider the long term effects.  Recovery from war is a painful process that impacts generations.

 

The people of Syria have already endured two-and-a-half years of war.  Many are displaced.  Others have lost loved ones, homes, and livlihood.  The use of chemical weapons is deplorable and cannot be excused, but what is the correct response?

 

Whenever I am faced with a difficult question, expecially one with moral implications, my missionary upbringing sends  scripture references and Sunday school lesson into my head.  In this instance there are several difficult questions:

1. What is our moral obligation?  I teach in a Catholic institution where we often talk about the mandate of the Sisters of St. Joseph to care for the dear neighbor.  The people of Syria would certainly qualify as "dear neighbor", but how do we best care for them?  What are the possible consequences of our actions, even if they are well meaning?  Will the "intervention" of the U.S. and/or other Western countries spark a fire that will lead to more pain and destruction?  My mother always taught me that two" wrongs" do not make a "right".  Won't any additional military intervention lead to more destruction and loss?  Is there another or better way to care for our neighbor?
2. Why is it our responsibility to police other countries?  Who made us the judge? The Bible verse that comes to mind is "Judge not least you be judged".  Didn't we use agent orange and napalm in Southeast Asia?  I'm sure one could argue that it was a different situation and that the agent orange was meant to thin the folage that protected our enemies, but I doubt that the people on the ground who suffered physical loss or loss of their livlihood or farm would appreciate that distenction.  The follow-up question is: Why do we feel it is our responsibility to intervene in some situations while we allow other equally serious autrocities to go unpunished, even unnoticed?  What about the Congo, Bosnia, etc.  The other verse that comes to mind on this issue is the one about removing the log from your own eye before trying to remove the speck from your neighbor's. We continue to justify water boarding and other forms of torture that we would most likely condemn if performed by others.
3. What is the real motive?  Is our motive truely humanitarian?  I have heard arguments from a retired general that a strike on Syria would make it more difficult for regime (that we want overthrown) to regain power.  He went on to say that we have already determined that it is in our best interest for the regime to fall.  Are we being fed humanitarian propeganda to mask the real motive?

 I am not arguing that what has happened in Syria is excusable, or that we have no responsibility.  I am simply arguing that we (by "we" I mean our leaders.  I certainly have no say other than my one small vote in the next election) need to look long and hard at ourselves, our motives, and the possible consequences of our actions.  If we review history carefully we are likely to discover that most wars are not fought for noble or humanitarian causes.  They are fought for power - either political or economic.  They benefit few and harm many.

Nor am I in any way disrespecting the men and women who serve in the military in any country.  In the United States most who join the military join either because they truely want to make the world a better place, or they join for the military benefits that promise a better future for them and their families.  They put their own lives in danger for the supposed good of others.  My heart goes out to them as I ponder the many questions surrounding war.  What is our moral obligation to them?

I look at war from a personal perspective that cannot see the justification outweighing the harm.  Beyone my childhood in post-war Korea I have seen the devastation of war in Vietnam where I visited in the early 1970s, during the conflict there.  I have seen it in the lives of the refugees and their children who have been my patients here in the United States.  I have tried to help them through their physical pain, mental anguish, and adjustment to a new country.  Refugees are the survivors, but still the victims of war.  They are displaced and relocated into a new and often unwelcoming environment.  Many are separated from family and other loved ones, often without knowledge of the fate of those they lost.  From my perspective I see too many victims who did nothing to deserve their fate.  I see the many faces of war that I have known over my life-time.  All of this makes it very difficult for me to condone any type of military action, no matter how compelling the retoric.

 

 

Gang Jeong Village Protest on Jeju Island

The Village of Gang Jeong on Jeju Island used to be a sleepy fishing village where hundreds of dolphins frolicked in the cove.  It was previously one of the most beautiful views where volcanic rock met the ocean, treasured by the entire island.  Now the dolphins are gone and the once crystal clear water of the ocean tributaries grow thick green algae, feeding on pollution from the nearby construction site.  There is a new Naval base being built in Gang Jeong, despite the protests and environmental concerns of local residents.

In preparation for the expected war ships, the bay is undergoing dredging and deepening.  Cement trucks barrel through the scenic coastal highway where hikers and bikers typically come for solitude and meditation.  The ocean life in the area is slowly dying away and along with it, the livelihood of many village residents.

But the protest is about more than the obvious environmental issues.  The residents of this island have a history of first rejecting the original division of Korea, and secondly working for peace and re-unification.  The peaceful stance of the island has been in terms of human life and suffering, but the residents of Gang Jeong village are not willing to give up.

They continue to pay dearly.  Many Koreans, including some of the local residents, have accepted the propaganda of fear.  They believe that the unique location of Jeju half way between Japan and Korea, as well of its proximity to China make it a crucial defense sight for northern Asia.  This is a view that has been jointly promoted by South Korea and the United States.  This has costs divisions within families with some family members attending demonstrations in front of the base construction sight while others condemn their actions as being unpatriotic.

I recently spent 2 days among the protesters.  Many have been attending daily for years.  Each day of protest starts with a Catholic Mass at 11:00.  During mass some of the demonstrators sit in front of each of the two main gates to the base.  Near the end of Mass troops of police arrive to clear the demonstrators so that the trucks carrying construction materials can enter or exit the construction site.  There are two battalions of police, one male and one female.  They physically lift the protestors, most sitting in chairs, set them aside, and allow the trucks to pass.  The female police officers are assigned to the nuns and other women in the group.  Once the trucks have passed, the police retreat and the protestors return to their posts.

Following Mass the demonstrators join hands in front of the base and sing and dance until lunch is served in the make-shift sanctuary turned mess hall.  After lunch the crowd disperses. 

Besides the daily demonstration, there is a book store and a peace center in the village where supporters can gather or collect information.  Demonstrators come from around the world to support the protest.  Some stay for a short period of time, as we did, others stay for years.  Koreans from the mainland have also joined in the protest.  Some have given up jobs and careers to spend years supporting the villagers.  Many vow to continue to the end.  One man has lived in a tent at the edge of the construction site for the past year, hoping that his presence there will help prevent expansion of the base.  Meanwhile researchers review the plans for the base and measure the environmental impact to the area.  Their predictions are grim.

Jeju is the island of the divers.  It is a place with a unique culture based on the strength of women, particularly women of the sea.  The economy is based on the products of the sea, such as seafood, as well as on tourism.  Both will be severely impacted by the presence of the large military base and the traffic of war ships and airplanes.  The village of Gang Jeong will be impacted most of all.

Although the base is officially a South Korean naval base, it is strongly supported by the United States which has a new emphasis on presence in Asia. 

For more information:
http://www.savejejunow.org (English/Mandarin/Japanese)
http://www.facebook.com/Savejeju (English/Korean)
http://www.facebook.com/groups/nonavalbase (English)
http://twitter.com/SavejejuNow (English)
http://cafe.daum.net/peacekj

North Korean Chicken Soup

I don't remember exactly where I got this one, but if you like garlic you'll love it:

North Korean Chicken Soup

Ingredients:

1 whole chicken
8-10 cups water ( or thereabouts)
1 package tofu
About a handful or two (or more) of Korean red hot pepper flakes
5-8+ cloves garlic (I like 8+)
1-2 bunches scallions
salt

Directions:
Bring water to a boil.  Add chicken and tofu.  Bring to a simmer.  Pick out tofu when it floats.  Keep chicken cooking until it is cooked. (meanwhile, skim the water of the "scum")

When chicken is cooked, lower heat and shred the chicken meat.  Shred it very finely.

Mash tofu.

Put shredded chicken in a bowl.  Add mashed tofu.  Add hot pepper, garlic, scallions and salt - and mix everything up by hand.  Taste - it should taste a bit salty but not be overpoweringly salty.  And the chicken mixture should have a substantial amount of hot pepper in it.  The mixture is called "ohn bahn"

Serve - put rice in the broth with the ohn bahn.  Mix up and eat!

Love and Marriage in Transition

In ancient Korea girls and women were kept inside the house away from all contact with males other than family members, and even that was often minimal.  Marriages were arranged by families and matchmakers.  They were essentially political unions to promote the economic and social status of the families involved.  The bride was no more than a pawn on a chess board.  She typically  did not even see her husband until after the ceremony when they were expected to consummate the marriage, often with family waiting patiently outside their room for proof.

I attended a traditional Korean marriage ceremony when I was in the Peace Corps in the 1970s.  In that particular case the marriage had been arranged, but I believe the couple had met once prior to the ceremony.  The day was full of rituals including a number of large meals at both the bride and the grooms respective homes.  The ceremony itself was quite traditional, complete with symbols such as rice, chicken, dried fish, and wooden ducks.  The ducks are a gift from the grooms best friend symbolizing fidelity.  The bride was brought out by male family members to be presented to the groom.  Throughout the ceremony her face was covered by extensions of her sleeves, held high to cover her face.  At the end of the ceremony she lowered her arms and the bride and groom shared a toast.
After the ceremony and a third feast, the bride and groom retired to a room in the house while the wedding party Waited.

Around the same time I met a young woman who came to me to learn English before traveling to the United States to join her husband.  This young woman was a dancer who had been part of the national ballet.  Her family was progressive enough to allow her some choice in marriage partners, but was quite insistent that she marry, despite the fact that she was quite happy with her life as it was.  Her family arranged a number of meetings with potential mates.  She refused them all.  The pressure  mounted and she finally agreed to marry a young man who was home from studying in the United  States.  He was quite possibly under equal pressure to marry.  My friend compared her honeymoon to typhoid fever as the two worst events of her life.  After her husband returned to the United States she was in no hurry to join him, but finally caved to pressure from her family to learn English in preparation for her upcoming life in America.  I later found her in Colorado and watcher her transition from a frightened immigrant who refused to answer her door to a competent professional with a masters degree from a U.S. university.  The marriage also blossomed after a difficult start.

Marriage practices in Korea continue to evolve.  A popular Korean TV drama follows several young people as they struggle with relationships.  By U.S. standards their struggles are tame, but this is a new playing field for Korean youth.  In the drama, the jilted suitor cozies up to the girl's mother hoping that pressure from mom will work in his favor.  Meanwhile the object of his affection has obviously fallen in love with someone else.  He is also enamored with her, but the two continue to maneuver around each other with smiles and small talk, unable to break the impasse

In real world Korea, despite a loosening up on dating, premarital sex is not acceptable and babies of unwed mothers are abandoned to orphanages.  Single moms are ostracized by society.  A recent article cited the low birth rate in Korea as a major problem related to inability of Korean youth to date or otherwise find a life partner.  The transition in marriage practices, like any major change, is a painful one wrought with issues that must be gradually resolved in keeping with the cultural values of this society within a larger global community.

Frisbee Diplomacy

Young Pioneer Tours is one of the few companies taking tourists into the northern part of North Korea.  This part of the country is less developed than the area around Pyongyang and, perhaps, gives a more realistic view of life in North Korea where farming is done with hand tools and the roads are unpaved.  One tour participant was surprised by the number of ox carts she saw from the window of their tour bus so she started counting.  She stopped when she got to 200. Apparently the ox cart is still the major form of transportation in this area, much as it was in rural South Korea in the 1950s.

One of the major disappoints for the group was their prohibition from interacting with the citizens of the region.  One large Australian man was particularly upset with this policy and even had a few words with the North Korean guides to no avail.

One of the attractions for the guests was a visit to a spa.  As the others entered the spa the large Aussie held back.  Soon there was a regular ruckus outside the spa that brought the tourists outside to investigate.  To their surprise their Aussie friend and the entire local villager were engaged in a rousing game of frisbee while the North Korean guides looked on in dismay.  At the conclusion of the game the Aussie approached a man who seemed to be a village leader, bowed politely, and presented the frisbee.  A moment the villagers, no doubt, will be talking about for awhile.

There is a saying in India, "do what you can with what you have".  Not too far from that village, on the Chinese side of the border, an 80 year-old South Korean minister and his wife run a small farm.  Rev. Han has written several books on sustainable agriculture.  He welcomes North Koreans who can travel to China to visit his farm and learn how to build warm shelters out of readily available inexpensive materials and how to grow small sustainable gardens in the harsh climate of northern Korea.  His belief is that relief from the hunger in North Korea must come from within.  Outside aid is not a sustainable solution.

My own interest in the division of Korea started at an early age.  My family came to Korea in 1955, just two years after the end of the Korean War.  Here is an excerpt from my book that explains my introduction to the issue:

"Shortly after our arrival in Korea in 1955, my father heard of a Christian woman who had been imprisoned as a communist sympathizer.  Her husband, as far as anyone knew, was in North Korea.  She had collaborated with the North Koreans during the war in order to save her family.  After the war that same family turned her in to the authorities.  Abandoned by her family and barely able to walk because of the torture she had endured during her imprisonment.  Kimsi was released from prison into my father's custody.  Although Kimsi was employed as a domestic helper, a common practice so that missionary women could participate in the work of the mission, she became a part of our family and remained with us until we left Korea (1967).  She was my mother's right arm and a second mother to us children."

In more recent years I have followed events in North Korea in the news as well as through reports from former missionaries who have visited North Korea and worked for reunification in Korea.  One group that visits Korea on a regular basis to provide medical and nutritional support is Christian Friends of Korea.  Their website is: cfk.org

Helping Hands Korea is an organization that helps North Korean Refugees : www.helpinghandskorea.org/

The tour group is:  www.youngpioneertours.com/

If you are interested in my book about acculturation and the Korea missionary experience you can find it at: www.kirkhouse.com/Books/An_Intricate_Tapestry

Remember to do what you can with what you have

Reflections

Today marks the beginning of my last week in Korea.  It is time to gather my impressions and reflect on the trip.  I have somewhat of a unique perspective as I grew up in Korea during the 1950s and 60s then returned in the Peace Corps in the early 70s.  I was away from Korea for 37 years after that.

Returning now, in the 21st century, is like stepping out of a time machine into the future.   Gone are the mud brick thatched roofed dwellings of my childhood, replaced by high rise apartment buildings reminiscent of a scene from "A Bee's Life".  The ox carts on the dusty roads replaced by networks of subways where droves of women in short shorts and heels and men who stepped off the pages of Esquire Magazine find their personal space in the crowd by never lifting their eyes from the cell phones in their hands.  Not once, since I have been here, has a stranger asked me how much I weigh or any of the other 20 or so personal questions that were daily fare during my Peace Corps days.

We used to travel across the country to Imshil to buy cheese from the Belgium priest there.  There was no where else to it.  Foreigners had trouble finding familiar foods.  Now you can stop at Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts, Baskin Robbins or KFC for your familiar food items.  You can even have McDonald's deliver.

But Korea goes much deeper than the glitzy exterior of K-Pop and plastic surgery.  A German friend compared Korea to Germany as two nations that came out of devastating wars and a troubled past to rise to the top in economic and social development.  While Germany has a past of shame to overcome, Korea was the exploited nation.  Both fought to overcome their history through hard work and dedication.  The Korean work ethic and desire to succeed are hard to match.  Children often go  from school to a private educational institution, or hogwan, then on to a music lesson or athletic  training session before returning home for dinner followed by homework.  The industrial revolution in Korea is often credited with the nation's current power status, but it was a hard and brutal revolution built on the bent backs and busy hand of young girls in sweat shops.  The human price was high.  It is still high.  Work and school stress is enormous.  Migrant workers from poorer countries often work 16 hour days seven days a week in sweatshop conditions.

There is a very humanitarian side to Korean society.  The religious groups are active in charity and social justice work.  Korean Protestant churches send more missionaries around the world than churches in just about any other country.    Others fulfill their mission at home.  One friend is minister to a small church in Inchon that serves many immigrant families.  I recently was with her when a group of Korean nationals from Uzbekistan had a day off from work and needed help navigating Seoul.  We ended up taking them to a local amusement park for the evening.  Nothing like an amusement park to light up the eyes of a child.  My friend's mother, a physician, started a clinic  for migrant workers that has ballooned into a variety of services including a shelter and a school.

We visited Catholic activists on Jeju-do and learned of their opposition and efforts to help local residents stop the construction of a new Navy base.  They are protesting on a combination of environmental and social justice or anti-military escalation issues.  I also visited a Catholic hospital in Seoul that is linked to an orphanage, a homeless shelter, and a home for disabled citizens.  The hospital serves all uninsured and otherwise needy individuals who would have difficulty receiving or paying for services elsewhere.

The Buddhist in Korea are also proponents of social and environmental justice.  What has been interesting to me, and this is only from my own limited observations, is that there seems to be little cooperation amongst the various religions even though their aims are similar, if not the same.

If social media is a reflection of culture than no reflection would be complete without attention
to television, Facebook, etc.  While my Korean is not always up to catching all the dialogue on TV I can make a few observations.  The issues related to prejudice, particularly towards individuals of mixed race, is often front and center in the media, but in a subtle way.  There is a morning reality series that follows several mixed families in thePhilippines.  The program highlights the joys and struggles, particularly of the Korean spouses, but in general has a very positive tone.  A recent Korean movie tells the story of a half-Filipino boy with an amazing talent as he competes in a Korean talent competition.  Prejudice is front and center in the story line.

A recent morning talk show did an interview with a young man who had lost an arm and a leg.  The hosts talked with him and his wife about their lives and their struggles.  It was a very frank and positive interview.

Soap operas have always been popular in Korea.  One now features an openly gay character.  He has a lot of struggles and (in my view) his character and story line need work, but it is a start.

There is a plethora of health and wellness material everywhere.  Food shows combine local culture and cuisine.  Talk shows feature body builders in their 80s and yoga instructors teaching the talk show hosts how to exercise properly.  Parks with plenty of outdoor exercise equipment are plentiful.

Being a foreigner is still an adventure in Korea.  There are lots of us now, but we are still a curiosity. I was asked by my hosts' church to give a talk on foreign missionaries.  That would not have been a stretch except that I had to do it in Korean (remember I was gone for. 37 years).  No sooner had I gotten past that than I learned that my hosts (members of Korea Home Stay) had been selected to be interviewed for a major TV network.  Needless to say their home stay guests were expected to be part of the interview.  I make my TV debut tomorrow morning.

I'm sure my remaining week will be equally exciting.  Stay tuned.

Kaesong and the Choco Pie economy

Kaesong is an industrial city that lies just north of the 38th parallel, presently part of North Korea. Since 2004 Kaesong has been the sight of an industrial complex where 123 South Korean companies produce a variety of goods.  The complex is a win-win proposition for both Koreas.  For South Korean companies there are about 53,000 North Korean employees who are well educated, skilled, speak Korean fluently, and provide cheap labor (about $110/month according to one source).  For North Korea the complex is a source of much needed foreign currency.

But let's step back in history.   Kaesong has not always been the industrial link between North and South Korea.  Way back in 919 it was the capital of all of Korea.  Jump ahead to 1950 and the start of the Korean War.  Kaesong was an entry point into South Korea during the initial invasion.  Five Methodist Missionaries and one German citizen were caught off guard in Kaesong and became part of what has been called "the long march" when they were captured by North Korea and became prisoners of war forced to walk for months through bitter cold winter and near starvation, to a prison camp in China.

Kaesong was the only Korean city to change sides.  Originally a South Korean city, it fell north of the 38th parallel division and was claimed by the north after the war.

Jump ahead again to 2011 when a new Kaesong issue developed.  South Korean companies were giving their workers Choco Pies during break time but not all companies gave workers the same number of the popular chocolate marshmallow cookie treat.  This caused an outcry.  Workers had developed the habit of selling at least some of their now famous Choco Pies on the North Korean black market, thereby boosting their family income.  The North Korean government considered Choco Pies a symbol of capitalism and attempted to have them banned from Kaesong.  Needless to say that was not a popular idea and the distribution of Choco Pies continued.

Fast forward to April 2013 when hostilities between the two Koreas resulted in the unilateral decision  by North Korea to close the industrial complex at Kaesong.  Despite six talks to resolve the issues, the industrial complex remains closed.  Imagine the consternation of the Kaesong workers at the collapse of their Choco Pie economy.  The North Korea government has had no choice but to separate the workers and send the to distant corners of the country where they cannot regroup (or so my sources tell me).

The future of the Kaesong industrial complex and the Choco Pie economy remain to be seen.  Meanwhile Choco Pie withdrawal has become a growing problem in the villages and towns just north of the 38th parallel.

Follow-up on Children Without a Nation

There is always more to the story.  North Korean orphans and abandoned children live a hard life, not that life in North Korea is easy for the average citizen, often trying to survive on the streets.  Most are malnourished and mistreated.  A few escape to China where life is not much easier.

One group was recently in the news.  The group had been staying in a foster home in China that housed up to 18 North Korean orphans.  In China they were in constant danger of being discovered and repatriated back to North Korea.  One of the group, a girl of 16 who looked like a grade school child due to her chronic malnutrition, had already been the victim of sex traffickers.

Nine of the children decided to leave for South Korea through Laos.  Their goal was to reach the U.S. embassy in Laos where they would be safe until they could enter South Korea.  They were under the impression that if they could only reach Laos they would be safe.  Unfortunately they were stopped at a check point.  The U.S. embassy was notified but under international law they had to be physically in the U.S. embassy to be considered under the protection of the U.S. government.

Things got worse.  Somehow they ended up being collected by the North Korean embassy instead of the South Korean embassy.  Back in North Korea they became a propaganda tool for the Kim regime.  At least for now, with all of the international press they have received, the children are safe.  They are too prominent to conveniently disappear into one of the many North Korean prison camps.

The 16 year-old girl who had already been trafficked decided not to leave China with the others.  She remains in foster care there.

This is only one of many stories from North Korea.  Another important group that is severely persecuted is the underground church in North Korea.  Christians are particularly persecuted because they are harder to subdue with fear tactics.  They are also harder to corrupt, making them a threat to a system that relies on a combination of fear and corruption to control all segments of society.

Author Peter Jung recently published his book called "Persecution" about the underground church of  North Korea.  The book is written in Korean, but is due to be translated into English soon.

Next blog on North Koea will address the "choco-pie" economy.  Stay tuned.  Also check out the website: NKnet.org for more on North Korea

Neglected History

What is the purpose of studying history?  That is the question that determines the content of the text.  Do we write history books as a template for teaching future generations, as an admonition against repeating the sins of the past, or as a platform for glorifying ourselves in the eyes of posterity?  Whatever the purpose, historians must pick and choose the content as human history is too expansive for a single text or even a single author of multiple texts.  Certain episodes in human history are bound to be either neglected or conveniently swept under the proverbial rug.

One such incident occurred on Jeju island.  Korean historians often refer to historical events by a significant date.  This one is referred to as the 4-3, or April 3rd, incident.  The incident did not really start on that date, and ended much later.

When Japan was defeated at the end of World War II the Japanese occupation of Korea ended only to be replaced by the joint occupation of the United States and the Soviet Union.  The two World War II allies were no longer friends so instead of cooperating to rebuild the Korean Peninsula, the two occupying forces divided the country.

Meanwhile in Jeju, there was unrest on several levels.  Returning soldiers who had been drafted by the Japanese army returned in droves to find no jobs.  There was overall resentment towards a new occupier that was too wrapped up in self-interests to deal with local concerns.  Finally, the people of Jeju were strongly opposed to the division of Korea.

Demonstrations resulted and on March 1, 1947 six Jeju residents were killed.  In response, the U.S. Military Administration sent in police and youth corps to suppress the uprising.  The brutality of  these agents towards the residents of Jeju continued but did not end the strikes.  On April 3, 1948 the Namdo party of Jeju rose up in protest against the continued targeting and torture of Jeju citizens.

Meanwhile, a presidential election was held that cemented the division of Korea.  Several Jeju districts abstained from the election in protest of the division of Korea.  Some Jeju citizens were actively involved in Athens a unification movement.  Others joined armed bands to actively resist the police and gang violence.

Martial law was declared on September 11 prior to which a military order was given that any person, regardless of age or gender, found in the middle area of Halla Mountai, located 5 km from the coastline, would be regarded as rebels and should be shot on sight.

Many villagers living in the area had no idea why they were being persecuted.  They fled to the caves in the mountains.  Many died when their villages were burned before they could flee.  Others were discovered in the caves and executed.  Others tried to get away by fleeing from the caves when the army approached, but they were often tracked by their footprints in the snow.  Others were captured and tortured only to be executed without a trial when the Korean War was declared on June 25, 1950.

Altogether the 4-3 incident lasted for seven years and seven months until September 21, 1954.  It is estimated that between 25,000 and 30,000 men, women, and children were slaughtered by order of the U. S. and South Korean military command for the crime of " opposing the general election and the formation of a South Korean state" and for demonstrating against oppression by police and military supported Northwest Youth Association.

The Jeju 4-3 Research Institute was established in 1989 to learn more about what happened during the seven years of persecution and systematic killing of Jeju citizens.

The film, JiSeul, depicting the 4-3 incident won the the Best Picture Award at the 2013 Sundance  film festival.  I haven't seen it yet, but it just moved to the top of my "must see" list.


Jeju is a small island crucially located half way between korea and Japan.  The location makes it crucial to Northeast Asian politics and defense policy, but the island people have always fought for peace.  They oppose the use of their island for military or political purposes.  They prefer to preserve the natural beauty of the island land and sea-scape while continuing to cherish their unique culture.

Gwangju Love Story (part two)

One night Miss Oh was sleeping in her apartment when the phone woke her.  It was Mr. Lee calling from Korea where he was doing some organizing.  Still half asleep she grabbed a pen and some paper to jot down the tasks she was sure he was about to assign her.  Instead he said, "will you marry me?"
She was still half asleep.  Was she hearing him right?  She asked him to repeat what he had said.

The couple lived in various parts of the United States, always working for democracy in Korea, until it was finally safe for them to return to Korea in 1994.  They lived in Gwangju, working for an NGO to keep the memory of the May 18 massacre alive and promoting justice and democracy.  There was still a lot of work to do.

Miss Oh lives alone now.  Mr. Lee died in 2011.  His grave is at the May 18 memorial site with the martyrs of the massacre and others who survived to continue their struggle.  Miss Oh visits his grave there.  She also hosts visitors who have a common cause.  She and a colleague want to start a school. Their school would be different from most schools that teach to the tests to enter prestigious universities.  Theirs would be a school to promote justice and train peace activists towards a more democratic world.  They are looking for seed money to make their dream a reality and to honor the memory of the freedom fighters of May 18.

Gwangju Love Story (part one)

This is a true story, but I have changed names and may have a few of the details confused as it was told to me in bits and pieces of conversation and my Korean is not perfect.
To set the stage for this story we need to go back a little in history.  Gwangju is the major city of the south western part of Korea.  Is is primarily an agricultural area, but is the hub of government and educational activities in the area.  During the late 1970s under the military dictatorship of Park Chyng-hee, there was a lot of attention on industrial development.  Unfortunately the interest was primarily interest in the large industrial monopolies at the expense of smaller business and agriculture.  Agriculture prices were kept low and workers wages were low in order to fuel the industrial growth.  Many of the workers were young girls because they could be paid low wages and were easier to control.  The means of control was intimidation.

The Gwangju area was left behind for two reasons.  First it was not an industrial area.  Second it was an area known to support Presidnt Parks opponents so was not given preferential treatment in terms of economic opportunities.  As a result the farmers and workers alike experienced a decline in their standard of living.

Students and other young people in Gwangju began working for democratic reform.  Some joined the Christian ministry to improve the lot of laborers.  Other, like our subject (we'll call him Mr. Lee), worked diligently to establish a night school for workers.  The school provided them with basic education as well as instruction in labor laws and the rights of laborers.

On May 17, 1980, the military decided to enforce the new stricter statutes of martial law curfew by entering the night school and savegly beating students and teachers.  The next day, students from the local universities took to the streets to protest the beatings.  The military response was brutal.  Many we're killed.  Soon the citizens of Gwangju, enraged by what had happened joined the students in the streets.  Women behind the lines cooked, cared for wounded, and prepared the corpses for burial; but the also organized the communications for the insurrection, supplied rocks and Molitov cocktails to the front lines and even helped raid the local police and military units to supply arms to the fighters.

At one point they were successful in rousting the army from Gwangju, but they knew their victory would be short-lived.  The military refused to accept the demands of the citizens of Gwangju  and returned in force.

Our Mr. Lee was not among the 415 insurrectionists who were captured, tortured, and later sentenced by military tribunal to either death or life imprisonment.  Nor was he among the dead.  But her knew that his name was on the list.  His days were numbered.  An unusual number of his former associates were suddenly dying of mysterious accidents or were being arrested.  He found his way out on a ship bound for the United States.  Landing in Seattle with no legal documents he headed for L.A. where it was easier to hide among the many Korean-Americans.

Meanwhile, another Korean was also making her way to L.A.  Miss Oh worked for a grassroots organization working for Korean democracy by raising awareness and money among the many Korean Americans in the United States and Canada.  Miss Oh had never been to Gwangju, but she knew what was happening to the young Korean women working in the factories and she wanted to do her part to make changes.

It was in L.A. That the two kindred spirits met.  There was no love at first sight.  Mr. Lee had made a vow to never marry.  He intended to dedicate his life to the cause.  Miss Oh was not a frivolous girl.  She was a woman with a mission.  She was past the age when most girls marry and was quite satisfied with her life.  She did not regret never having married.  Still, there was an instant bond between the two.  Had they been in different circumstances they might have thought they were falling in love, not that the thought didn't cross their minds.  It was very hard for Mr. Lee to even admit he had feelings for a woman.  He was a man of his word.  He never went back on his promises.  This was truly a struggle for him.

Children Without a Nation

Children do not choose their parents or the circumstances into which they are born but they often are the unintended victims of all that is wrong in the world.  Two examples have come to my attention in the last week.

The first are children of immigrant women in South Korea.  Because of historical per-birth gender selection, there is a shortage of women in South Korea, particularly in poor and rural areas.  The void is being filled, at least to some extent, by "mail order brides" from poorer countries.  Unfortunately the children of these unions often face prejudice, discrimination, and bullying. In the Korean movie "A Wonderful Moment" (English title) one little boy has a happy ending.  But happy endings can be hard to find.  The Sarang school in Seoul is a relatively new international school created to give these children a refuge and an education.  The renounced violist, Richard O'Neil (himself of mixed race) has used his musical talents to create an orchestra made up of mixed race children in South Korea.  These are small steps, but changes in attitude are slow.  There is a long way to go before these multi-culture children are accepted into the mainstream.

Life can be even harder for mixed Korean children in China where escaped North Korean girls and women are often trafficked for sex.  The Chinese government works closely with North Korea to repatriot escaped citizens.  The women not returned to North Korea are subject to imprisonment in China, leaving their children alone or with Chinese relatives who may not want them or be equipped to care for them.  Because they have a Chinese father, even if he is unknown, the children cannot enter South Korea as refugees.  They are left in a state of limbo, often without Chinese papers and with nowhere to go.  Many are homeless and without a country that will claim them.

Helping Hands Korea is an organization that works to help North Koreans in crisis.  (http://www.helpinghandskorea.org/). They have been able to help a number of the needy and abandoned Korean-Chinese children, but for every one they are able to help there are probably thousands more who need their help.  One of the biggest frustrations for the group is the lack of support they receive from South Korea and even from the United Nations.  Their work is dangerous because it is not sanctioned by China or North Korea.  The U.N., government, and many private agencies are afraid to step on Chinese toes even though they are aware of the incredible human suffering endured by the people of North Korea.

The Comfort Women

There are only 58 known comfort women or halmonies, as they are called, still living in South Korea.  These old women are all that is left of the some 200,000 women and girls kidnapped or tricked into sexual slavery during World War II.
Their story is tragic, but it is also a story of bravery and perseverance as the survivors continue to fight for justice, not only for themselves, but also for oppressed and exploited women around the world.  These women overcame the pain and the shame of their past to step up and challenge the Japanese government, telling their stories to the world.  They still have not even received an apology or acknowledgement from the Japanese but that doesn't stop them.  They demonstrate in front of the Japanese embassy in Seoul every Wednesday at noon.  every Wednesday one of the frail halmonies gets up in front of a crowd of supporters to encourage young people to work hard for justice.  They raise money for women in the Congo who have also experienced rape as a weapon of war.  The halmonie who spoke today is old and frail.  Two people helped her onto the platform to speak but once she got there her voice was clear and her words ere powerful.  She encouraged the students there to study hard and make the world a better place.
The students in attendance paid tribute to the halmonies with banners and signs demanding justice.  Many gave speeches.  Some sang.  A large group of Korean-American teens from California played traditional Korean music and sang. It was very touching.  Afterwards many had their pictures taken with the comfort women memorial statue that will soon be on tour in the United States.
Rape as a weapon of war goes back much farther that World War II.  During the Japanese invasion of Korea that started in 1592 many Korean women and girls committed suicide rather than be raped by the Japanese soldier.  Korean women were captured and taken to camps.  There were reportedly up to several hundred women per army unit.  The Chinese soldiers of the Ming dynasty who came to Korea to help expel the Japanese were no better.  Many more Korean women jumped from cliffs or drowned themselves to escape. At other times during Korea's long history, invading powers demanded payment in young girls.  Sometimes thousands of girls were sent to China or Japan almost as a form of tax payment.

• Today the countries involved in sexual slavery may be different, but the practice of waging war on women's bodies continue in many forms in many different parts of the world.  Unfortunately the perpetrators, like the Japanese soldiers during World War II go unpunished.  Without consequences the war crimes continue.

Changing Korea

People keep telling me that Korea is changing - and they are not talking about all the new construction or the faster Internet, they are talking about the culture, the people.  The older people say that the younger generations don't understand what life was like before.  They don't know how to live without a hot shower everyday.  They don't understand the suffering of the generations before them.  But the younger generations have their own problems.  TV programs warn of impending neck problems from texting and too many hours at the computer.  They complain about their tiger moms who don't understand their desire to free themselves from the burden of high expectations...
But there are tell tell signs that all has not changed.  The punk rockers with their Mohawk hair and spiked leather jackets bow to the audience before their performance, totally negating their credibility as true "bad boys".  The scripture may be read from the screen of a cell phone and the music projected from a MacBook, but the service still goes on until it is over without any apparent regard for time or schedule.
Change is inevitable.  It keeps life from getting stale or predictable.  How can we grow if we cannot change? How can we find a better way if we do not experiment?  The major change and growth of  Korea in the 1970s and 80s came with a horrible price.  The younger generations did not pay that price, but they bask in the benefits.  It is their time now.  They must be the catalysts of change and they must bear whatever consequences come with that change.
Those of us who are old enough to remember the late 1960s and early 1970s in the United States can certainly remember our own youthful desire to change the world. Power to the people- right on.

Special Food

Korea has 3 special summer days that mark the hot season.  The days are marked by special foods. The one served at my house today was one that I had seen on a cooking show this morning while having breakfast from Dunkin Donuts.  The dish is a soup with broth made from chicken feet.  Each bowl of soup has one small chicken (or at least the greater part of one) stuffed with rice, ginseng, and dried fruit.  The rice has a distinct ginseng flavor to it. According to the TV roast duck is also a traditional dish of the day.
I'm looking forward to finding out what we get to eat on the next special day that marks the middle of the summer heat.

Arrival in Korea

A trip half way around the world is never easy.  This time we came to Korea via Toronto and Beijing.  Of course there were delays, but we made all of our flights and were only about 2 hours later than expected getting in (2:30 am instead of midnight).  Luckily the we had reservations at the spa at the airport where, for $30 we were able to get a bed and a wonderful hot shower as well as two lockers: one for shoes and the other for our clothes and valuables.  There was a cheaper option for the shower and a space to sleep on the floor but we opted to pay extra for the private space.then this morning went to Dunkin Donuts for coffee and took the subway to the apartment.  I haven't quite figured out how to upload pictures from the iPad yet, but will post some later if I figure it out.

The Circle of Life

It is funny how life comes full circle.  About 8 years ago I reconnected with the Korea missionary culture of my childhood.  That led to the writing and publication of my book, "An Intricate Tapestry".  Then last summer I returned to Korea for the first time in 37 years for the centennial celebration of my High School, Seoul Foreign School.  South Korea changed a lot over those 37 years, but in many ways it was the same.  I was home.

Now I am about to start a new chapter in my relationship with Korea and with my past.  Someone recently posted a video on Peace Corps Korea on facebook.  Imagine my surprise when I saw a picture of myself.  That led to some new/old connections.

I will be traveling to Korea again in just under 2 weeks with a Korean colleague from my current job.  We received a grant for curriculum development of a course we will be teaching in Korea in January titled "Global Search for Justice."  I'll also be working on a project for some of my physician assistant students related to care of immigrants and refugees - a growing issue in Korea.  And... I will be meeting the videographer who made the Peace Corps video.  I can't wait to see where this new chapter of my life takes me.

One thing I have learned through the many twists and turns of my life is that nothing we ever experience lives in isolation.  Everything comes back around and weaves itself into our own beautiful creation story.

I haven't posted on this blog for a long time, but look for more to come.